In this article, you will find all the instructions for the various types of Murphy bed mechanisms in our range, along with answers to the most frequently asked questions.
This is your comprehensive guide on how to build a Murphy bed using mechanisms from our collection.
Important: All exact dimensions, technical drawings, and installation clearances can be found in the PDF instructions included at the end of this article (see "Downloads" section). The information in this FAQ is for general guidance only – always refer to the specific instructions for your mechanism when building.
Cabinet Construction Instructions
A complete list of instructions on how to build the cabinet for specific Murphy beds can be found at the end of this article (downloadable files). We have prepared a separate PDF file with technical drawings and all dimensions for each mechanism type.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions
1. Safety – What do you need to know before the first opening? +
Murphy beds have high-power springs, so several rules are mandatory:
- Anchor the furniture to the wall before the first opening. This is an absolute requirement – without it, the entire structure may tip over when unfolding the bed.
- Do not anchor to plasterboard (drywall). The anchor must hold in a solid brick or concrete wall and support the full weight of the open furniture.
- Work with two people during the first opening until the springs are properly adjusted.
- Operation by adults only. Children may use the furniture only under supervision.
The furniture must be stable both when the bed is stored and when unfolded. The distance between the outer panels of the cabinet must remain constant – otherwise, the mechanism will not work properly.
2. The mechanism lifts the bed frame too strongly and the bed won't stay horizontal – how do I adjust the springs? +
First, install your intended mattress. Without a mattress, the mechanism works too strongly – this is normal because there's no load. Adjusting without a mattress is pointless.
If the mechanism still pulls the cabinet upwards with the mattress installed, you have two options:
- Minor adjustment with the screw. At the back of each mechanism, there is an adjustment screw for fine-tuning the spring tension. Don't over-tighten and don't completely unscrew it – otherwise, you'll need to disassemble the entire mechanism.
- Removing springs (for bigger issues). Disassemble the mechanism, remove one spring from each mechanism, reassemble, and test again.
This may seem labor-intensive, but there is a huge variety of mattresses on the market with different weights and heights. The mechanisms are universal, so sometimes they need to be adjusted to fit a specific setup.
3. Which mattress should I choose? Weight and thickness limits +
For the mechanism, not only the thickness matters but also the weight of the mattress. Exceeding the limit (especially with vertical opening) makes opening and closing difficult and overloads the mechanism.
Maximum mattress weight:
| Size |
Max. mattress weight |
| 90×200 cm |
35 kg |
| 120×200 cm |
35 kg |
| 140×200 cm |
30 kg |
| 160×200 cm |
25 kg |
The maximum mattress thickness depends on the leg type selected – see the question about legs below for details.
4. What is the load capacity of the mechanisms and who can sleep on the unfolded bed? +
The load capacity depends on the bed frame size. The most important factor is the dynamic load – the weight the mechanism can support during movement (opening and closing). This includes: the bed frame, the enclosure around the frame, the mattress, and the front panels.
| Size |
Model |
Static load |
Dynamic load |
| 90×200 (vert./horiz.) |
PI-00062-B02 |
170 kg |
70 kg |
| 120×200 (vert./horiz.) |
PI-00071-B02 |
300 kg |
100 kg |
| 140×200 and 160×200 (vert./horiz.) |
PI-00072-B02 |
300 kg |
140 kg |
Maximum sleeper weight (including mattress), with properly constructed cabinet:
| Size |
Max. weight (person + mattress) |
| 90×200 |
up to 150 kg |
| 120×200 / 140×200 / 160×200 |
up to 250 kg |
5. Which leg should I choose? Differences between H-250 and H-430 +
The choice of leg affects the cabinet dimensions and the maximum mattress thickness.
| Parameter |
Low leg H-250 |
High leg H-430 |
| Leg height |
250 mm |
430 mm |
| Min. cabinet depth |
400 mm |
500 mm |
| Max. mattress thickness |
160 mm |
300 mm |
| Clearance front–floor |
approx. 166 mm |
approx. 350 mm |
The low leg is more discreet and gives the furniture a more solid appearance. The high leg makes cleaning under the cabinet easier and visually "lifts" the furniture off the floor.
What height will you be sleeping at?
The sleeping height is the sum of: leg + frame (18 mm) + metal bed frame enclosure (120 mm) + your mattress thickness. The values below are without the mattress – the mattress goes on top:
Low leg H-250
166 mm + 18 mm + 120 mm = approx. 304 mm (without mattress)
+ 15 cm mattress → approx. 454 mm (~45 cm)
High leg H-430
350 mm + 18 mm + 120 mm = approx. 488 mm (without mattress)
+ 15 cm mattress → approx. 638 mm (~64 cm)
A 15 cm mattress is just an example – substitute your own mattress thickness to determine the final sleeping height.
6. What materials should I use for the front panel and construction? +
Recommended: Lightweight furniture-grade chipboard panels for the fronts – they keep the weight low and don't overload the mechanism.
Not recommended: MDF panels, mirrors, and other heavy additions – they can overload the mechanisms and lead to premature wear or failure.
Panel thicknesses assumed in the instructions: outer cabinet 22 mm, front and inner enclosure 18 mm. Exact dimensions and installation clearances can be found in the PDF instructions for your mechanism.
7. How do I install the front panels? Why isn't this in the instructions? +
We leave front panel installation to individual design because everyone has different tastes and designs the enclosure differently. The most popular solutions are:
- Front screwed to the enclosure – using L-brackets, you screw the panel directly to the board surrounding the metal bed frame. Simple and effective.
- Front divided into segments – e.g., 5 equal parts with minimal gaps. This requires precise design and accurate drilling using specialized machinery.
- Closing doors – give the cabinet a wardrobe-like appearance.
8. Do I need to buy anything else besides the complete set? +
This depends on how you're building the enclosure and who is making it.
If you're building it yourself – you may need mounting brackets, screws, and mattress straps (we recommend 2 straps per piece of furniture) to prevent the mattress from falling into the cabinet when closing. We have all of these in our range, but the choice depends on your project.
If you're commissioning an external company – apart from the purchased bed frame with mechanisms, you usually don't need anything else; the company will handle the construction elements.
9. How do I care for a Murphy bed? Maintenance and inspections +
- Regularly check the condition of the springs and wall anchoring. Make sure all screws and connections are tight.
- Promptly repair any damage and signs of wear. For more serious issues, consult a specialist.
- After each move or repositioning of the furniture, check that the wall anchoring is still secure.
- Before regular use, test the stability in both positions, the mechanism operation, the anchoring security, and ensure there are no loose parts or squeaking.
